Mexico: Sonora, Puerto Peñasco, Where the Desert Meets the Sea.  By the Nelson-Duac Family  

Imagine miles of coastline with sandy beaches and rocky coves, salt marshes and secluded estuaries, a place where the tide pools have no waiting lines. Imagine a place where low tide beach combing the event of the day. It is the home of CEDO --The Intercultural Center for the Study of Deserts and Oceans, and a terrific place for families.

Puerto Peñasco or "Rocky Point", as Arizona gringos call it, is on the edge of the Sea of Cortez also known, as Golfo de California is. It is less than a five-hour drive from Phoenix or Tucson. Either route crosses miles of the Papago Reservation (Tohono O’odham) and miles of uninhabited Sonoran desert terrain.

Stop at Organ Pipe. Organ Pipe National Monument along the way is worth a stop. The visitor center has plenty of information and displays about desert ecology. The hiking trails are well marked and easy for little legs. Park rangers provide daily nature talks and walks. The complex has an extensive camping facility. The advantage of camping in this remote desert location is the brilliant starry nights provided at no extra charge.

Crossing the border. Directly south from Organ Pipe is Lukeville, the crossing point into Mexico. There is a gas station, convenience store and a few houses. South of the border the road to Rocky Point improves. It is wide, well paved and easy to navigate. The terrain is desolate and flat. The horizon is punctuated with the remains of ancient volcanoes, now only weather worn mountains. Occasional dirt roads mark the dusty access to ranches. Stray vacas often wander among the shoulder high vegetation. Dust devils race along arid fields scattering twigs and debris. This road should not be traveled in the heat of the day unless there is no other option. (Be prepared for are we there yet.)

The only major town along the route is Sonoyta. While it is a supply center for Sonoran residents, tourists often stop to try their skill at bargain shopping. There are about a half dozen shops each displaying pottery, blankets and clothing in a rainbow of bright colors. The shop hours are unscheduled and the atmosphere is unhurried. On most days, as autos leave town, local volunteers from the fire department halt vehicles asking for donations to offset ambulance services. It is not a hold-up. Most folks donate an American dollar and proceed down the open road to the seacoast.

Look for the occasional mirage. The approach to Puerto Peñasco is unimpressive. Almost every day of the year it is dusty and dry with few landmarks memorable enough to photograph. Most of the buildings are weatherworn with varying shades of purple, aqua or pink. Strings of seashells hang drying in the sun and fishing nets drape porch fronts. Children chase chickens and street dogs malinger under shade trees. Yards aren’t manicured and no one has a sprinkler system. Sidewalks and traffic lights are scarce.

For decades the residents of Puerto Peñasco survived by fishing or ranching. Tourists were few. English translations were unnecessary. The streets were unpaved and street signs non-existent. Residents got by without electricity or plumbing. Fast forward to 2004, things have changed.

The main streets are paved and light bulbs sold in shops. There are some street signs and everyone speaks a little English or has a child nearby to translate. Residents share the richness of their fishing port and the natural beauty of the region with pride. This is a getaway with out frills. It is a place to wear old sneakers, if you must wear shoes at all. There is no need for a watch and sand will be in and on everything within a few hours after arrival.

There are miles of coastline with sandy beaches and rocky coves, salt marshes and secluded estuaries make this destination a vacation gold mine. The tide pools have no waiting lines. Twice daily at low tide sandbars and rocky reefs are revealed These 24-foot tidal washings make beach combing the event of the day.

In the town an unofficial tourist corridor has developed. It corresponds to the fishing port and the liveliest part of town. Shopkeepers display crafts from all over Mexico. The art of bargaining is practiced by all wishing to participate. There is a happy-go-lucky approach when the day gets busy, after all every shop front has a view of the sea.

Find CEDO. The best part of this seaside retreat is CEDO (The Intercultural Center for the Study of Deserts and Oceans). It is located in the gated community called Las Conchas. For anyone wishing to discover more about the area with its endless tidal pools, estuaries, lava beds and diverse desert vegetation, this is the place.

CEDO operates as a not-for-profit entity. Peggy Turk Boyer and Rick Boyer direct and manage this multi-faceted complex. It is a natural history museum as well as a field research and education center. There is an extensive research library and an impressive array of artifacts on display. On a typical day they may have research scientists arriving, a tidepool group excursion departing and local school children congregating for a desert ecology talk. All this while welcoming the general public. Scheduled programs originating from CEDO include tidal walks, kayaking in remote estuaries and hikes to ancient volcano beds.

Kid's note: Mr. Boyer at CEDO knows everything about the tide pools. He walks with kids and can answer any question. The one thing to remember is to look but not to disturb the living creatures in the tide pools. Another kid's note: Inside the white building on the hill they have lots of neat bones and shells to look at and everyone knows about them. This place is just as cool as the Bay of Fundy building in Canada, but there more seaweed at the Bay of Fundy.

Stand in the Earthship. Part of the CEDO experience is a stop at "The Earthship", a nearby building constructed entirely from recycled materials. The building is nestled securely within a berm of sand. Concealed within the dome shaped building are used tires, aluminum cans and plenty of sand. While its purpose at CEDO is to house the gift shop and bookstore, it is easy to see why the construction is a solution to future habitats in harsh climates.

Next to "The Earthship" is the well-preserved skeleton of a young Fin whale. Felipe Maldonado often leads visitors along the 55-foot bone span encouraging questions. He explains the reality of reclaiming a whale carcass and shares first-hand accounts of his own encounters on the sea. His love of the area and his enthusiasm for "The Earthship" concept make him the perfect spokesman for the region. Kid's Note: The whale skeleton is cool and you can touch it.

Rocky Point is town of innovative survivors. When the fishing industry began to decline, some turned to oyster farming as a viable option. The first venture was developed by a group of local women. Their co-op, Unica Mujeres del Mar, is located on Morua Estero. From this tranquil dune protected location they now ship oysters to Los Angeles as well as other stateside markets.

Eat oysters with the kids. It is possible to visit this oyster farm and watch oysters removed from the estuary to be sampled. The farm, east of Las Conchas, is not easy to find (unless you obtain a map from CEDO) but it is a trip worth the effort. Even if eating oysters is not appealing, seeing first-hand the effort made by the local women is inspiring. Kid's note: This is the place that I ate my first oyster, and my second, and my third. My Dad bet me and he lost. The eating isn't too bad because they have orange soda to wash down the taste.

Puerto Peñasco is also the perfect place to relax, watch waves and count seagulls. Kids don't have to wear shoes and no schedule must be kept. The beaches are uncrowded with only an occasional beachcomber or a few binocular clad bodies watching birds from nearby dunes. The sea is almost always azure and the skies cloudless. Just sitting in one place will provide plenty of natural entertainment. Our favorite activity is running with the dog through the waves and the runner up is playing Frisbee also at the water's edge. Some beaches allow ATV s but we stay away from them.

Ride in a panga. Each dawn brings the departure of shrimp boats and an occasional mirage. As the sun rises the pangas (small wooden boats) of local fishermen break waves and seem to disappear at the horizon. The brilliance of the light provides more of photo opportunities than one camera can master. The combination of sea, sand, lava rock and cloudless skies is dramatic. once the culture shock has worn off, each day seems better than the day before. For those who rally after four in the afternoon, the sunsets are luminescent providing unimaginable shades of magenta and lavender. Each evening the sea appears to swallow the sun as it sinks below the horizon.

For adults the sensual richness of the Sonoran seaside is revitalizing. For kids the sense of freedom and discovery is everywhere. For busy families Rocky Point is a place where there is time, time to unwind, time to recharge and regroup.

IF YOU GO

Before your leave. Because Puerto Peñasco is within a Free Trade Zone it is not necessary to obtain a Tourist Visa from the Mexican consulate if you are an American citizen. However, it is essential to obtain short term Mexican auto insurance. RAMA in Tucson will provide the needed coverage. Coverage may also be obtained in Lukeville at the convenience store, providing you have the vehicle registration.

If you wish to take a pet all immunizations must be current and your vet must provide a written statement for the border authorities.

Bottled water is available once you get to Rocky Point but to take plenty of water for the road.

Getting there. Rocky Point is about 60 miles south of the border. From Tucson or Phoenix the total trip is about 215 miles. Most people drive. If this is the case take proof of ownership so that crossing the border will go smoothly. For safety reasons it is important to schedule your travel so that you are not driving after dark.

Hertz allows autos rented in Tucson or Yuma to be driven to Rocky Point. The insurance is taken care of at the counter at the time of rental. The cost is an additional $20 or $30 per day depending on the type of auto rented.

DETAILS

The Intercultural Center for the Study of Deserts and Oceans (CEDO). The facility is located in Las Conchas about three miles off of the road to Caborca. When you pass the guard’s gate just smile and say CEDO (pronounced see-doe). Write CEDO P.O. Box 249, Lukeville, AZ 85341 or e-mail CEDO@infotec.net.mx for a schedule of activities.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. A marvelous showcase for the Sonoran Desert, the Monument’s desert wilderness is enchanting. Drive a remote road, hike a backcountry trail, camp beneath a clear desert sky, or just soak in the warmth and beauty of the Southwest. The exhibits an extraordinary collection of plants of the Sonoran Desert, including the organ pipe cactus, a large cactus rarely found in the United States. Visitor Information 520-387-6849 or www.nps.gov/orpi

Sleeping Places

The Best Western Playa Inn. While this property is located on the beach they have a nice friendly clean place. Rooms or suites include breakfast and happy hour. Many rooms have kitchens. They also allow well-mannered dogs. 1-800-952-8426.

Rocky Point Rental. An option when more room is needed. www.rockyrental.com

Puerto Peñasco. This is a general source with more options within the community. www.Puertopenasco.com

Editor's Note: Our favorite beach is Playa Miramar because it is remote. Our second favorite is Las Conchas because we can walk to CEDO. There are many camping facilities located along the beaches. Most of them have RV hook-ups.